Unravelling the threads of durability

In this article, industry veteran Jason Chapman of BezierOne, delves into the fascinating realm of printed apparel durability.

In the ever-evolving world of fashion, where trends come and go with the seasons, one element remains a steadfast staple in wardrobes around the globe: printed apparel.

From iconic band T shirts to bespoke designer pieces, the art of print on fabric has been a canvas for self-expression, creativity, and identity. Yet, as consumers, we often find ourselves questioning the longevity of these wearable works of art.

How long can a beloved graphic tee or a cherished printed dress withstand the test of time and the rigors of everyday wear?

The role of ink: A spectrum of possibilities

In the realm of printed apparel, not all inks are created equal. The type of ink used can dramatically influence the print’s durability, vibrancy, and resistance to wear. Here are some common types of inks and their characteristics:

1. Plastisol ink:

• Properties: Thick, durable, and vibrant.
• Advantages: Excellent opacity on dark fabrics, resistant to cracking and fading.
• Drawbacks: Can be stiff, less breathable.

2. Water-based ink:

• Properties: Soft, breathable, eco-friendly.
• Advantages: Creates a softer feel, better for the environment, excellent for light fabrics.
• Drawbacks: Less vibrant on dark fabrics, can fade more quickly.

3. Discharge ink:

• Properties: Removes dye from the fabric, replacing it with ink.
• Advantages: Soft, vibrant colours on dark fabrics without heavy feel.
• Drawbacks: Limited colour range, complex application.

4. Sublimation ink:

• Properties: Transforms from solid to gas without becoming liquid.
• Advantages: Infuses ink into the fabric, extremely durable, vibrant colours.
• Drawbacks: Only works on synthetic fabrics like polyester.

The substrate: A fabric’s tale

The substrate, or the fabric onto which the ink is applied, plays an equally crucial role in the durability and quality of printed apparel. Different fabrics interact with inks in unique ways, influencing the overall performance of the print.

1. Cotton:

• Characteristics: Natural, breathable, absorbent.
• Compatibility: Works well with most inks, especially water-based and plastisol.
• Durability: Can shrink and wear out over time, affecting print longevity.

2. Polyester:

• Characteristics: Synthetic, durable, less absorbent.
• Compatibility: Ideal for sublimation inks.
• Durability: Excellent resistance to wear and tear, maintains print integrity.

3. Blends:

• Characteristics: Combines qualities of both natural and synthetic fibres.
• Compatibility: Versatile, can work with a variety of inks.
• Durability: Balanced durability, enhanced comfort and longevity.

The synergy: Achieving optimal performance

The true measure of a printed garment’s durability lies in the synergy between the ink and substrate. Factors such as ink adhesion, fabric pre-treatment, and the curing process all contribute to the final product’s resilience.

Here are key considerations for achieving optimal performance:

1. Pre-treatment:

• Ensures better ink adhesion and vibrancy.
• Common methods include washing, chemical treatments, and heat setting.

2. Curing process:

• Properly curing the ink is crucial for durability.
• Techniques include heat pressing, infrared curing, and conveyor dryers.

3. Fabric quality:

• Higher quality fabrics tend to hold prints better and last longer.
• Consider the weave, thread count, and fabric weight.

In conclusion, the foundation of a durable printed garment is built on the careful selection and interaction of ink and substrate. By understanding the properties and compatibilities of each, manufacturers can produce apparel that not only captivates with its design but also stands the test of time. As we continue to explore the intricacies of printed apparel, this fundamental knowledge sets the stage for deeper insights into the innovations and practices that ensure our favourite prints remain as vibrant as the day we bought them.

Testing the durability of prints on apparel is essential to ensure they withstand the rigors of everyday wear and laundering. Here are several methods to assess print durability effectively:

1. Wash testing

Objective: Simulate multiple wash cycles to observe changes in the print.

Method:

• Wash the printed garment according to standardised laundering procedures (e.g., AATCC, ISO).
• Use standard detergents and follow specific water temperatures and cycle types.
• Conduct the test for a set number of cycles (e.g. five, 10, 20 cycles).
• Observe and record any changes in the print’s appearance after each cycle (e.g. fading, cracking, peeling).

2. Abrasion resistance or rub testing

Objective: Determine the print’s resistance to surface wear and colour staining.

Method:

• Use a Martindale or Taber abrasion tester.
• Place the printed fabric sample under the tester’s abrasive head.
• Set the machine to simulate a specified number of rub cycles.
• Examine the print for wear, fading, or damage after the test.

3. Stretch testing

Objective: Evaluate the print’s flexibility and resistance to cracking under stress.

Method:

• Stretch the printed area of the fabric to its maximum intended use stretch.
• Hold the stretch for a designated period (e.g. 30 seconds).
• Release and inspect the print for cracks, peeling, or distortion.
• Repeat the process several times to simulate repeated use.

4. UV exposure testing

Objective: Assess the print’s resistance to fading from sunlight exposure.

Method:

• Expose the printed fabric to UV light using a UV tester or sunlight simulation chamber.
• Follow a specific cycle duration to replicate long-term exposure (e.g. equivalent to one year of sunlight).
• Observe and measure any fading or colour changes in the print.

5. Heat and sweat testing

Objective: Test the print’s stability under high temperatures and perspiration conditions.

Method:

• Place the garment in a controlled environment chamber set to high temperatures (e.g. 40°C) and high humidity (e.g. 80%).
• Maintain these conditions for an extended period (e.g. 24 to 48 hours).
• Inspect the print for signs of degradation, colour bleeding, or adhesion failure.

6. Chemical resistance testing

Objective: Determine how the print withstands exposure to common chemicals.

Method:

• Apply various household chemicals (e.g. bleach, detergents, oils) to the printed area.
• Allow the chemicals to sit for a specified time.
• Rinse and observe any changes in the print’s appearance, such as discolouration or damage.

7. Flex and bend testing

Objective: Assess the print’s durability under repeated flexing and bending.

Method:

• Use a flex tester to repeatedly bend and flex the printed fabric.
• Set the machine to simulate thousands of flex cycles.
• Inspect the print for signs of cracking, peeling, or other forms of wear.

8. Adhesion testing

Objective: Measure how well the print adheres to the fabric.

Method:

• Use a cross-hatch cutter to create a grid pattern on the print.
• Apply adhesive tape over the cut area and then remove it quickly.
• Examine the grid for any ink removal or damage.

Recording and analysing results

After conducting these tests, it is essential to systematically record observations and measurements. Compare the results against established standards or benchmarks to determine the print’s overall durability. High-quality prints should show minimal degradation across all tests, indicating they can withstand the demands of regular use and laundering.