People, planet, profit

Situated metres from the seafront in Newquay is the only screen printer and embroiderer in the UK that is Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified. But what does this mean for business? P&P editor Melanie Attlesey reports.

ASP was born in 2003 when, after many years working in IT and retail, director Chris Dart decided to go it alone and start his own business. Fast forward 13 years and ASP is now the only contract screen printer and embroiderer in the UK that is GOTS certified.

Chris started ASP from a small industrial unit with a second-hand manual press. “It was very hard to register multi colour prints on a cheap entry level machine and each shirt had to be registered individually. All a bit of a nightmare,” he says. Chris learnt everything he knew himself and picked up work from local surf shops looking to create and sell their own designs.

Eight years ago ASP moved to Newquay where they went about setting up a print shop in a 4,000sq ft unit just metres from the seafront.

Quality, reliability and value

Chris describes ASP as a trade specialist garment screen printer and embroiderer for modern businesses that demand quality, reliability and value, which they are unable to find elsewhere in the traditional print industry.

He says: “We are fanatical about quality of finish, and obsessed with great customer experience. By combining world class equipment, bespoke software, and LEAN processes, we can boast a 98% on time delivery record and can provide immediate customer account updates.

“We act as more than just a supplier, with our consultative approach, transparent processes, and consistent production making us the garment decoration professional of choice for well known brands, charities, and promotional agencies alike.”

Over the years Chris has invested in an M&R Chameleon manual press, a six colour eight station M&R Sportsman, a 10 colour 12 station MHM E-Type and two dryers.

As Chris points out: “We have grown our business organically without external investment. We have continually invested profits back into the business to buy more machinery. We used the Chameleon for around eight years but this has now been phased out of production. We are now working our way towards MHM iQ Oval.”

GOTS certified

It was a local organic baby clothes company that first suggested ASP became GOTS certified. For Frugi it was important that the whole supply chain it used from cotton to garment decorator was GOTS approved. Frugi approached Chris and asked if ASP would become GOTS certified so the two companies could work together. Hayley Goodchild, production co-ordinator, said: “It was important for us that ASP was GOTS certified as it meant we were able to source locally and support other like minded businesses. The conversation with Chris was great and he immediately saw the mutual benefits of the GOTS accreditation.”

It can appear quite daunting when looking at becoming a GOTS certified decorator. There are many aspects to take into consideration during the certification process and in order to remain GOTS certified. A decorator must ensure they keep a complete paper trail of all orders, keep a close eye on health and safety and employment law, ensure safe and legal working conditions for employees, monitor waste water, demonstrate a reduction in water, gas and electricity usage, carry out a detailed clean down process and ensure organic garments are kept away from conventional cotton garments.

Chris uses water-based inks that contain no PVC or phthalates and to ensure the screen printing process is as environmentally-friendly as possible ASP have recently invested in a CPS recirculation unit for cleaning screens. This unit recirculates the solvent so it can be used again prevents and waste from entering the drainage system. Periodically you need to empty the sludge that has been collected in the bottom of the unit. This can then be disposed of safely. Chris adds: “This is very eco-friendly and minimises the amount of waste that goes into our drains”

Chris says that it would be impossible to run the business if it wasn’t for FastManager, a bespoke business management software for the apparel industry. His background in IT has definitely helped “It does take time to learn and set up the system, but once you do, it gives you some much more control and enables you to work efficiently.” This means Chris can keep on top of everything including the paper trail he has to provide to the Soil Association when it comes to his annual audit.

It’s not only the operational process that Chris has to be conscious about, but also where he sources the garments he uses. These must be GOTS approved as well, ensuring the whole supply chain is GOTS certified.

Chris has chosen to use garments from Mantis World, Continental Clothing’s EarthPositive range and Stanley & Stella. “We are only one of two authorised dealers of Stanley & Stella’s products in the UK. Stanley & Stella is a ‘brand in a box’. The garments have a great retail quality and fit and, as they are made out of organic cotton, we have a natural affiliation with the brand,” explains Chris.

Becoming GOTS certified has done little to alter the way that Chris runs and manages ASP. In fact he says the whole work ethic just makes sense. “It’s a cleaner way of doing business and one that every screen printer should consider; it’s the right thing to be doing. Accreditation might not be the correct route for every garment decorator, but an environmentally-friendly way of running a print shop should be high on everyone’s agenda.”

Chris admits that although becoming GOTS certified has provided ASP with another string to its bow, as a company it couldn’t survive with printing solely GOTS certified work. This is because Chris believes the consumer is not aware of the benefits that being GOTS certified brings. “Before the economic crash when people had more money to spend, organic clothing and the whole lifestyle was very topical. But as soon as the crash happened it was this luxury that was one of the first things that went out of the window along with the veg. Now the economy is recovering we are finding that the interest in organic cotton is making a resurgence. However, the problem remains that not many trade customers are aware of what GOTS is and how it could benefit them. It’s an education process and we need to educate our clients and prospective clients, so in turn they can educate the consumer,” says Chris.

Clients that do use ASP because of its GOTS credentials include Greenpeace and WWF. Chris says, “Greenpeace phoned us up after looking for an approved decorator on the GOTS website. There were only, at that time, eight in the whole of Europe with ASP being the only one based in the UK.”

Sustainable business

As well as following this cleaner way of business, Chris also lives by the triple bottom line philosophy of people, planet, profit. This is a framework consisting of three parts: social, environmental and financial. Looking after all three in equal measure enables Chris to run a more sustainable business for the future with his employees, finances and the environment at the heart of it.

Talking of the future, Chris has big plans for this. He has his eye on an additional 5,000sq ft industrial property in close proximity to his current one. He explains that the plan is to move the offices, goods in/out, embroidery department and his showroom over to the new building, meaning more room for another screen print machine in the current print shop. This move will enable ASP to be able to take on more work.

ASP currently employs 10 members of staff and with the planned expansion is currently looking to recruit more. In the spring Chris recruited experienced screen print manager Justin Pritchard to the role of production manager. Chris hopes that with Justin’s knowledge and experience, ASP can be more proactive about promoting and marketing its GOTS credentials, thus moving the business forward.

Chris loves his job and this is evident in the way that he talks about his business. He says: “When you start a business it’s your own baby although ASP is more like an adolescent now. The company needs people like Justin, as a central influence to the company’s upbringing and future success.

“I love coming to work in my shorts and slaps, going down to the beach after work. It’s these pleasures in life that make it all worthwhile. Living in Cornwall is certainly a different way of living. I wouldn’t do it any other way.”

And what about a final piece of advice: “You’ve got to know your numbers. There’s an old adage, ‘failing to plan is planning to fail.’ Making the move from being a perceived back street screen printer to a mainstream one is all down to planning,” Chris says.